South America 2019-2023
unknown length - solo travel - Suzuki DR650

Salar de Surire

November 6, 2019  —  Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile

Salar de Surire Natural Monument is an enormous salt flat (with borax) located at an altitude of 4245 metres. It is almost entirely contained within the Las Vicuñas Reserve.

A part of the salt flat, dedicated to conservation, is an important nesting ground for three species of flamingos. It is also possible to see numerous vicuñas and some much rarer animals. The western part of the salt flat is a mine exploited for its borax.

Salar de Surire - Chile
Truck transporting borax.
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Borax is used in the manufacture of detergents, cosmetics, insecticide, and several other products.
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Vicuñas
Salar de Surire - Chile
Flamingo
Salar de Surire - Chile
A few flamingoes far away.
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile

Termas de Polloquere

Salar de Surire - Chile

I spent the night at the Polloquere thermal baths. It is a magnificent place with an incredible view over the salt flat and the mountains. At 4200 metres, the night will be very cold, and I will have to sleep fully dressed with all the layers of clothes I have. Despite that, I am still cold for most of the night.

The pool originates from a subterranean spring at a temperature of 66 degrees Celsius (150 F). Therefore, the next day, I am able to take a bath to warm up. Moving away from where the water comes out of the ground, the water temperature rapidly drops, and it is easy to choose a preferred spot.

Salar de Surire - Chile
The motorbike is visible on the other side of the pool. It is there I am camping for the night.
Salar de Surire - Chile
Some vapour can be seen.
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile

Termas de Polloquere - The next day

Salar de Surire - Chile

Here is the proof that the night was cold; the motorbike and the tent are covered with frost. On the other hand, the cold morning air ensures that the vapour from the pool is very thick. It is an impressive sight.

Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
At dawn, the vapour is very thick because of the cold.
Salar de Surire - Chile
The campsite is behind the curtain of vapour.
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
The boiling water source.
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile

A family travelling by bicycle

Salar de Surire - Chile

I meet this small family of adventurers a few kilometres before reaching the Polloquere thermal baths. They travel with their two kids who are currently in the small cart. They left from Alaska some two and a half years ago, and they want to reach Tierra del Fuego, if possible.

The boy is only 3 years old, and the girl is 5. Do the math, they left more than 2 years ago... the youngest was only 8 months old. It's incredible. What a nice family. That day when they arrived, it was their daughter’s birthday.

They also slept at the Polloquere thermal baths, a few metres from my camp.

Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile
Salar de Surire - Chile